Five to Try: A Sense of Humour ; Wit, Even in Catering, Is Always a Virtue

Summary

---

ROOBUROO 21 Chapel Market, N1 (020 7278 8100) [pounds]25 Promotional cards devised by Mumbai-born Michael Tarat poke fun at Indian stereotypes and send up common perceptions about Indian restaurants. They make me smile, as does the fresh, light, home- style food, each dish distinctive in its own base (rather than drawn from the typical three pots). Five greens with five spices are cooked al dente; rooburoasts include corncobs rubbed with wild lime and roasted chilli butter; rooburreckless "off the eaten path" offers double mango duck and lamb pepper fry.

AMBASSADOR 55 Exmouth Market, EC1 (020 7837 0009) [pounds]35 Wit without intelligence is a poor thing. Clive Greenhalgh's experience and confidence resonates in this easy-going local restaurant styled, it seems, as a tribute to Edward Hopper's painting Nighthawks. The menu jumps to attention with each change of season or arrival of a timely ingredient and the chef understands well how to get the best out of what's best.

See the full content of this document

Extract

---

Five to Try: A Sense of Humour ; Wit, Even in Catering, Is Always a Virtue

Greenhalgh's deep, esoteric wine knowledge is something to attend to, as is the set-price lun...

See the full content of this document

---