Toby Young Is the Restaurant Spy ; 'We Missed the Belly Dancer at Momo's but, Fortunately, Every Woman There Had a Bare Midriff'

Summary

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It's always a sign that a restaurant or nightclub has really lodged itself in people's hearts when a phantom 'S' is added to its name. For instance, I've never heard J Sheekey referred to as anything other than Sheekey's, just as Tramp will always be Tramps. Similarly, Momo, which is both a restaurant and a nightclub, is known throughout the great cities of the Western world, where its cosmopolitan customers hail from, as Momo's.

Ostensibly, this is a reference to the nickname of Mourad Mazouz, its North African owner, but then he also owns or part-owns Sketch and no one calls that Momo's. Indeed, few of the customers at either restaurant/nightclub can possibly know his name. As elsewhere, the phantom 'S' at this West End perennial is a tribute to how much it is loved.

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Toby Young Is the Restaurant Spy ; 'We Missed the Belly Dancer at Momo's but, Fortunately, Every Woman There Had a Bare Midriff'

It's not hard to work out why. Its combination of French and North African influences combine to create a memorable cultural hybrid a little slice of Marrakech, via Paris, in the centre of London.

When my wife and I...

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