A Tough Act to Swallow ; Generous Portions Are Usually Very Welcome, but a New Spitalfields Venue Is Pushing Quantity at the Expense of Quality

Summary


HAWKSMOOR

157 Commercial Street, E1 (020 7247 7392) Open Tue-Sat 5pm-1am, Sun 5pm-midnight.

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Extract


A Tough Act to Swallow ; Generous Portions Are Usually Very Welcome, but a New Spitalfields Venue Is Pushing Quantity at the Expense of Quality

A meal for two with wine and a cocktail, around Pounds 95 (no service charge on bill).

WHAT would you expect from a restaurant named Hawksmoor, after the 18th-century architect of nearby Christ Church in Spitalfields? Some sort of wenches-for-waitresses historical dining experience, involving overcooked meat, bland veg and inedible dishes like flummery and posset, I'll bet. In fact, Hawksmoor, the new venture of Shoreditch restaurateurs Will Beckett and Huw Gott, is an American hymn to cocktails, meat and...

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