Maghreb Spice in the Belly of the City ; with Exotic Dancers and Colours, the Spirit of North Africa Is Alive in the Square Mile. Shame About the Average, Overpriced Menu

Summary


Kenza 10 Devonshire Square, EC2 (020 7929 5533) A meal for two with wine, 180

WHEN you bring food back from a holiday, or try to recreate a dish enjoyed, it never tastes as good at home. The hiccup being that it is virtually impossible to evoke the mood you were in when you enjoyed that pasta in Venice, munched that squid in Corfu, devoured that burger in a Californian diner or slurped that tom kha soup in a Thai cafe. You can't pack smells, people, vibrancy and ambience into your suitcase.

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Extract


Maghreb Spice in the Belly of the City ; with Exotic Dancers and Colours, the Spirit of North Africa Is Alive in the Square Mile. Shame About the Average, Overpriced Menu

The excitable press release for the newly opened Kenza in the City trumpets it as an "oasis" (press releases use words like that) ... "evoking the energy and passion of the Maghreb".

The definition of this Arabic word is ambiguous. Specifically...

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