Still Eating After All These Years ; Every Decade has a Dining Room to Match Its Mood. From the Glitz of the Ritz to Louche Langan's, Mark Palmer Takes a Table at the Restaurants of the Century

Summary

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1910s Rules 1900s Wiltons Hotspot Jermyn Street, St James's.

Dish Established in 1742 by George Wilton as a stall selling oysters, shrimps and cockles, Wiltons became a fully fledged restaurant in 1840 and received its first royal warrant four years later as purveyor of oysters to Queen Victoria. It remains undeniably posh and formal. The grilled wild turbot costs Pounds 40, the lamb cutlets a mouth-filling Pounds 22. A favourite of the aristocracy and politicians from David Lloyd George to Lady Thatcher.

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Still Eating After All These Years ; Every Decade has a Dining Room to Match Its Mood. From the Glitz of the Ritz to Louche Langan's, Mark Palmer Takes a Table at the Restaurants of the Century

Amuse-bouches This was where Sir Winston Churchill once forgot to pay his bill and was chased down the street by a waiter. In 1942, mid-war, financier Olaf Hambro was eating oysters as a bomb landed on St James's Church, Piccadilly. He asked for the restaurant to be added to his bill as the then owner Mrs Leal folded her tea towel and declared Wiltons closed. The restaurant is still run by Richard Hambro.

Last orders The jacket rule for men is strictly enforced.

Martin Johnson, England's former rugby captain, was seen tuck...

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