Culinary Craft That Leaves the Tastebuds Tingling

Summary

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LONDON A GROUP of four of us went to the Fat Duck last week for the tasting menu excoriated by Brian Sewell. It's only worth going with an open mind to revel in the mind games, such as the orange- coloured jelly tasting of beetroot and the beetroot-coloured jelly with an orange flavour.

You could attempt to recreate most menus at home, however badly. The tasting menu at The Fat Duck is an exception. As far as Sewell's suggestion that the menu is indulgent folly is concerned, diners should be free to choose how they spend their money without critics taking the moral high ground. I suggest "hoary old sceptics" like him stick to the a la carte in future.

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Culinary Craft That Leaves the Tastebuds Tingling

Jonny Allison, W14.

BRIAN Sew...

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